From the 17th to the 19th of May the “international London wine fair” was held at excel.
Not only a major event in the on –trade industry to have the possibility to meet producer, winemaker or supplier; this is as well for me an occasion to taste some exiting bins.
For instance, it is only during this event that I treat my palate with few drops of “chateau d’esclans, Garrus”, a rose wine coming from Provence and mainly made from Grenache grapes.
Made by a highly skilled winemaker team gathered by the son of a Russian millionaire (Sasha Lichine), if this rose has been rated as the best rose of the world, it is as well the most expensive ( In UK a 75cl bottle for the treat will cost you around £90)
I will not discuss here if it is worth the price as I would rather save my money for my favourite wine making area (yes unfortunately my mother pass me on a part of her DNA and her taste for champagne)
So let’s not discuss further about this French rose made by a Russian millionaire’s son as for me this year the focus was on another son.
The big event, the son of the Christ, the messiah was Michael Mondavi and his wine called “M”.
His father, Robert Mondavi, originally from Marche in Italy, found his winery in 1966 in California. As the first major estate built after the prohibition in Napa valley, his goal was to produce outstanding wines able to rivals against the finest Europeans.
One of his most successful wine was “opus one”, a joint venture with “Baron philippe de Rothschild” from “chateau mouton Rothschild “(Bordeaux first growth)
As considering myself as part of a new generation of wine lover, a generation that the sociologists called “generation millennium”, I am always enthusiastic about the new generation of winemakers, so the thought of tasting Robert Mondavi son’s wine was making my heart beat fast. I had great expectation on that.
Tuesday 17th, I am making my way through the stands. My map in hand, I am struggling finding the little spot where “M” by Michael Mondavi is showcasing.
I am expecting so much, my hands are almost sweating.
There we go the few drops are poured in my glass.
The colour is dark, dense, and ruby. On the nose I can recognise the typical aromas coming from the cabernet sauvignon: black currant, plums and black cherry with some notes of more developed flavours: liquorice and charcoal and a touch of earth.
I can’t wait anymore, my palate is begging for it. I am having it, expecting a taste of paradise.
The balance is perfect, medium to full body, good level of acidity, high alcohol contents; the tannins are soft and rounded. The tannins management is impeccable, yes there is a lot but they are so soft and velvety.
Nothing is overpowering in this wine, all the components are in balance.
The length is long and you can feel the potential ageing. The palate is much earthier and developed than the nose: currants, spice, berries and oak.
But it seems to miss something..... Some kind of sparkle. If everything is well done and balanced, if the wine is an amazing achievement and can be called one of the finest cabernet sauvignon, it just felt that something was missing to match my level of expectation.
Maybe my French blood makes me too passionate and emotional and my palate is affected by my feelings. So before drawing a final review on this wine, I will give it a go once again, this time with a cool head.
Michael monte
Sommelier
The star and garter
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